From the Chronicle Kitchen:
The Country Cooking of Italy
11.30.11 | Colman Andrews | Food and Drink, Guest Authors, Weekly Recipes
We’re delighted that Colman Andrews has graciously made some time from his regular writing gig these days, as Editorial Director of The Daily Meal, in order to be our guest blogger this week.
Colman’s newest cookbook, The Country Cooking of Italy, is a follow up to the highly acclaimed and award-winning The Country Cooking of Ireland.
This time around he travelled through all the regions of Italia to discover and share the foods that home cooks and rustic eateries offer — some familiar, others very much unknown outside of their particular region.
What’s your favorite go-to Italian dish to cook at home? Where have you eaten incredibly well in Italy’s country towns (and not just in Tuscany!)? Leave a comment on this week’s blog and you’ll be eligible to win a copy of the book we’ll give away to a randomly selected commenter (offer eligible only in the USA and Canada).

Photograph by Hirsheimer & Hamilton.
Italy gave me mushrooms. I grew up hating the things. At my house, they came in cans. Little cans. Little mushrooms — “button” mushrooms, the label said. All I knew was that they were unappetizingly greenish-brown in color, dauntingly weird in texture (like slimy, squeaky erasers, I always thought), and predictably bland in flavor. When they’d end up in soups or pasta dishes or — worst of all — in sauce ladled over ground beef patties (an insult to the hamburger!), I’d assiduously pick them out and leave them heaped on the side of the plate.
Then one day, having lunch at a trattoria in Rome with my American-in-Italy friend Karen, I noticed some big, round, meaty-looking slabs of… something, cooking on the wood-fired grill. The chef drizzled them with olive oil from time to time, then showered them with salt. They smelled wonderful. I had no idea what they were, and said so. Karen laughed and said, “They’re funghi porcini — little pig mushrooms. They call them that because they’re so big.”
The following week, back at the same place, I ordered them for myself. They were as meaty as they’d looked, juicy and earthy and crisp around the edges and just about the best thing I’d had in recent memory. I did like mushrooms, I realized. These mushrooms. Which had about as much in common with the buttons of my younger years as the Chianti Classico we were drinking with them had with reconstituted from frozen grape juice. Encouraged by the experience, I went on to order mushrooms every chance I got — more porcini, grilled, sautéed, in risotto; long-stemmed chiodini preserved in oil; finferle (chanterelles) tossed with pasta; the rare ovoli (Amanita caesarea) thinly sliced in salad… All memory of erasers was banished.

Photograph by Hirsheimer & Hamilton.
Potatoes with Porcini
Because Italy’s famous porcini are greatly treasured all over the country but have a limited season, they tend to be expensive. The notoriously frugal (and, to be fair, long poverty-wracked) Ligurians figured out a way to make them go further by intentionally muddling them up with potatoes, so that the latter take on the former’s flavor and it is not always possible to tell where the porcini stop and the potatoes begin. I first learned of this thrift-minded recipe, ironically, from Luigi Miroli, proprietor of the now-vanished Ristorante da Puny in the very un-thrift-minded village of Portofino.
Serves 4
1 pound/500 grams fresh porcini mushrooms
1 small bunch Italian parsley, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound/500 grams waxy potatoes, very thinly sliced
Salt

Photograph by Hirsheimer & Hamilton.
Preheat the oven to 350°F/175ºC/gas 5.
Carefully remove the stems from the mushrooms and set the caps aside. Mince the stems and mix them with the parsley and garlic.
Using the oil, generously oil the sides and bottom of a wide, shallow baking dish with a tight-fitting cover. Arrange the potatoes in overlapping layers on the bottom of the dish, salting each layer. Sprinkle half the parsley mixture over the potatoes, then arrange the mushroom caps, cap side up, in a single layer over the potatoes. Sprinkle the remaining parsley mixture over the mushrooms.
Seal the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil, then top the dish with its cover. Bake until the potatoes and mushrooms are tender, about 1 hour. Serve immediately.
Purchase: The Country Cooking of Italy.
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