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Free Fall Knitting Project

My great shame as a craft editor is that I don’t know how to knit. Shocker. I try to hide the fact when I attend big craft fairs and tradeshows. (It’s hard when you can never remember if skein is pronounced skine or skane.) So, today I wanted to atone for my sin by giving the knitting community a freebie project from one of our new fall books. Good non-knitter karma…Enjoy!

This one’s from Picture Perfect Knits, which is full of intarsia projects - perfect for cozy fall projects with personality. You could easily adapt the hearts and bones in this dog sweater to make a super cute Halloween costume.

Hearts and Bones Dog Sweater
Project by Catherine Head
Photo by Sheri Giblin

As if your canine buddy isn’t cute enough already, here comes the ultimate in swoon-inducing dog sweaters. With a ribbed turtleneck, intarsia hearts-and-bones repeating motif, and front-leg sleeves, this sweater will turn your best friend into the best-dressed pup at the park.

SIZE
One size; fits medium-sized dogs

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
22.5 inches long; 22-inch circumference

MATERIALS

· Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Superwash Worsted (100% washable wool; 100g = 200 yds)

· Main Color (MC): cactus, 2 skeins

· Contrasting Color 1 (CC1): alabaster, 1 skein

· Contrasting Color 2 (CC2): rose quartz, 1 skein

· Size 8 (5mm) 24-inch circular needles (or size needed to match gauge)

· Size 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles (for sleeves)

· Tapestry needle

· 2 stitch markers

GAUGE
18 sts and 20 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN

COLLAR

· The collar is worked in 2×2 ribbing, increasing 1 on each side every fourth row as follows:

· With MC, CO 64 sts. Do not join. The sweater is worked flat and then seamed up the belly.

· Row 1: (K2, P2) to end.

· Rows 2–3: Repeat row 1.

· Row 4: K1, m1, K1, (P2, K2) to last 2 sts, P1, m1, P1.

· Row 5: P1, (K2, P2) to last st, K1.

· Rows 6–7: Repeat row 5.

· Row 8: P1, m1 (K2, P2) to last st, m1, K1.

· Rows 9–11: (P2, K2) across.

· Row 12: P1, m1, P1, (K2, P2) to last 2 sts, K1, m1, K1.

· Rows 13–15: K1 (P2, K2) to last st, P1.

· Row 16: K1, m1 (P2, K2) to last st, m1, P1.

· Rows 17–24: Repeat rows 1–8. (76 sts on needle)

· The body is worked in stockinette stitch.

BODY

· Row 25 (WS): Purl, increasing 1 stitch at center of row. (77 sts)

· Begin shaping the body:

· Row 26 (RS): K1, m1, K to last 2 sts, m1, K1. (79 sts)

· Row 27: P7, place marker, P to last 7 sts, place marker, P to end. There are 65 sts between markers.

· Row 28: K1, m1, K to marker, work intarsia pattern between markers, K to last st, m1, K1. (81 sts)

· Row 29: P across.

· Rows 30–33: Repeat rows 28–29 twice. (85 sts)

· Row 34: Repeat row 28. (87 sts)

· Row 35–36: Repeat rows 25–26. (89 sts)

· Make the armholes as follows:

· Row 37: P12, join new yarn, BO 3 sts, P59, join new yarn, BO 3 sts, P12. You will work each of the three sections separately for 12 rows. (83 sts)

· Row 38: K1, m1, K to end of section, (13 sts); K59; K to last st, m1, k1. (13 sts)

· Row 39: P across.

· Rows 40–49: Repeat Rows 38–39 5 more times. (18 sts on each side and 59 sts in center section)

· Finish armholes and rejoin sections into a single piece, continuing with one strand of yarn only.

· Row 50: K18, CO 3 sts, K59, CO 3 sts, K18. (101 sts)

· Rows 51–63: Work even in stockinette stitch.

· Shape lower back:

· Rows 64–65: BO 6 sts, work to end of row. (89 sts)

· Rows 66–67: BO 4 sts, work to end of row. (81 sts)

· Row 68–69: BO 3 sts, work to end of row. (75 sts)

· Row 70: K1, k2tog, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (73 sts)

· Row 71: P1, p2tog, P to last 3 sts, p2tog, P1. (71 sts)

· Rows 72–73: Repeat rows 70–71. (67 sts)

· Row 74: Repeat row 70. (65 sts)

· Rows 75–80: Begin working intarsia chart while repeating rows 72-73 three times. (53 sts)

· Rows 81–83: Work even in stockinette stitch and finish intarsia chart.

· Row 84: Repeat row 70. (51 sts)

· Rows 85–92: *Work 3 rows even, then repeat Row 70, repeat from * twice more. (45 sts)

· Rows 93–110: Work even in stockinette stitch.

· BO all sts.

STRAPS (MAKE 2)

· Pick up 4 stitches on right rear edge of sweater body.

· K 40 rows (garter stitch).

· BO all sts.

· Sew loose end to the right side where the body decreases began.

· Repeat to make a second strap and sew onto left side.

SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

· With DPNs, pick up 32 sts around right armhole.

· Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 11 rounds. BO loosely.

· Repeat for left sleeve.

FINISHING

· Sew in all loose ends.

· Sew body together from the CO edge to where the body decreases began.

For these color intarsia charts that go along with this project, and more than 75 others, pick up a copy of Picture Perfect Knits.

Check out more Handbound posts.

Kate Prouty
Craft Editor

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9 Comments

  1. | Posted by Gail E aka the Stitcn 'n Frog

    I wondered, whose Basenji is modeling the sweater? Many years ago I raised Basenji’s and love the breed. They are so intelligent and loving, not to mention very clean pups.

    Lovely sweater too, but the Basenji really caught my eye~

    gail e


  2. | Posted by Kammy

    i love this sweater! but I have a very small dog… 3.5 lbs to be exact. Any suggestions for shrinking the pattern to fit him? And another quick question, will I have problem with him peeing on the straps under his belly?


  3. | Posted by Cat

    Hello! This is Cat, and I put together that dog sweater pattern. That particular dog, Amy, belongs to my brother (or is it vice versa?), and I based the pattern off of her old favorite sweater, with some tweaks here and there. As far as I know she has never had a problem with peeing on the straps.

    There’s quite a difference in size between a mid-sized dog like Amy and a 3.5 pounder, so I’d recommend finding another pattern for a dog sweater especially suited for your pup (there are quite a few available for free online), and simply applying the hearts and bones where you can fit them.

    I hope that helps… happy knitting!


  4. | Posted by mistake finder

    HI, on rows 35 and 36 the pattern calls for repeatings rows 25 and 26 - ending with 89 sts. Well…Row 25 tells me to inc in the center of the row. Row 26 tells me to inc on both ends. That equals 3 increases. Which gives me 90 sts. Just thought you’d like to know.


  5. | Posted by Karen

    The basenji caught my eye as well. It’s the male dogs that have trouble peeing on the underbelly. That’s why “she” has never had a problem peeing on the straps…


  6. | Posted by Jeannie-aka-Tiddledeewinks

    Cute!


  7. | Posted by Susan Fletcher

    I want to knit the dog coat hearts and bones sweather. Why did you but the pattern up for printing and no patterns for the haerts and bones. I would think the full patterns would be there to print. The pattern is no good like this, Was thie done so you would buy the book. If so not very good salesman ship i do not think. Susan


  8. | Posted by trailrunner21

    Love the sweater and the Basenji! I’m looking to outfit my pair of B’s. Nice to see one modeling!


  9. | Posted by Kate

    Hi Susan, We didn’t mean to lead you astray by not providing the intarsia pattern for the dog sweater. We’ve added it in to the post above for you. Thanks for reading, and happy knitting!


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  1. | Posted by Free lunch: Dog-related knitting | First things first

    [...] If I had a dog, and if said dog wouldn’t object to wearing handknits, and if I had more time and yarn than I knew what to do with, I might actually knit this little Hearts and Bones* dog sweater. [...]


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