tomato salad with corn and basil
It is commonplace to complain about supermarket tomatoes and to reminisce, if you're old enough, about the way tomatoes used to be. By now, most shoppers know that supermarkets and their distributors--businesses that depend on moving large volumes--can't give vine-ripened tomatoes the special handling they need. And they recognize that farmers who grow tomatoes for supermarkets must therefore choose varieties that can withstand high-impact shipping. Sadly, flavor and shippability rarely go hand in hand.
But thanks to the proliferation of farmers' markets, consumers have a choice. At markets around the country, growers are showing off stunning tomatoes in a rainbow of colors and a cascade of shapes, sizes and flavors. At many stalls, parents and children stand in line for comparative tastings and sample green-when-ripe Green Zebra tomatoes, tiny Red Currant tomatoes and the prized Amish heirloom tomato called Brandywine.
"It's a wonderful place for consumer education," says Kathleen Barsotti of Capay Fruits & Vegetables, a Northern California tomato grower. Barsotti knows that she can bring unusual tomatoes to the market, and as long as they taste good, people will buy them. Among her favorites are Early Girl and Ace, both red slicing tomatoes; Marvel Stripe, a gold-and-red-striped heirloom tomato; the purple-red Brandywine; the meaty Viva paste tomato; the irresistible Sweet 100 cherry tomato and a new golden orange cherry tomato called Sungold that sells about as fast as farmers can get the baskets on the table. selection: Ask for a sample if the aroma alone doesn't persuade you of a tomato's flavor. A tomato should smell good and feel firm (not hard), although Barsotti says some heirloom tomatoes get a little soft on top when ripe. The color, whatever it is, should be full and rich. Cosmetic cracking doesn't matter. storage: Never refrigerate tomatoes unless they are veering toward overripe. (Even then, it would be better just to eat them.) Keep them at room temperature, preferably not in a sunny window where they can get too hot.
tomato salad with corn and basil
Made with tomatoes in a variety of sizes and colors, this photogenic salad is the essence of summer. At the farmers' market, look for small golden cherry tomatoes such as Sungold, green-when-ripe tomatoes such as Green Zebra, tiny Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes, bright red Early Girl tomatoes or the golden orange Mandarin Cross tomatoes. My version is inspired by a salad I had at Berkeley, California's Chez Panisse Cafe, where the season's best produce is always showcased in simple but irresistible ways.
In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, wine vinegar and shallot. Season highly with salt and pepper. Set aside for 15 minutes for flavors to blend.
Core large tomatoes. Halve through the stem end, lay cut side down and slice thinly. Halve cherry tomatoes. Arrange tomatoes attractively on a large serving platter, interspersing the different colors and putting the cherry tomatoes on top. Sprinkle corn kernels over the tomatoes. Tear basil leaves in small pieces and scatter over all. Spoon dressing evenly over the salad.
serves 4.