The entire cult of barbecue is founded on a spiced slab of ribs. Period. There's something about the primal, meat-on-the-bone experience that brings out the raw appetite, the urge to hunch over something at once uncivilized and glorious. Your ribs résumé should include several different sauces that leave no doubt as to who is lord of the pit, including one shortcut version that transforms a bottled sauce into a smoky, expressionistic brew. The following does just that. We like Open Pit Barbecue Sauce as a base, but cut loose with your favorite sauce or heat source. For the tenderest ribs, ask the butcher to remove the tough membrane from the back side of the meat.
Ground black pepper to taste
Garlic powder to taste
SAUCE
One 28-ounce bottle barbecue sauce
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Garlic powder to taste
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
4 to 6 ounces dark beer
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon hot sauce
2 teaspoons liquid smoke
1 cup hickory chips (optional)
1. Sprinkle the ribs lightly on both sides with pepper and garlic powder.
2. To make the sauce: Combine the sauce ingredients in a 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, and set aside.
3. Prepare a charcoal fire. Soak the hickory chips in water to cover. When the coals are hot, push them to one side of the grill to create a source of "indirect heat." Drain the chips and sprinkle half of them over the coals. Place a disposable foil pan in the center of the bottom grate to catch drippings.
4. Grill the ribs on the part of the cooking rack without hot coals under it, turning occasionally. After 20 minutes, sprinkle the remaining chips over the coals. When the ribs are brown and almost done (around 50 minutes), slather the back (boney) side with the sauce, turning after 10 minutes. Then slather the front (meaty) side and cook until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with additional sauce on the side.
Serves 6