Bending the Rules is a visual exploration of identity and gender throughout history. Using the lens of dress, costume, fashion, and body image, the book will highlight how we make space in society and culture for human expression. Clothing and the physical body interact intimately, so dress is a non-verbal, powerful way to delve into the boundaries that frame our views of self, identity, and gender. Fashion and dress criss-cross all parts of our experience, meaning clothes can show both serious and playful aspects of selfhood and identity: joy, longing, aspiration, power, fear, negotiation, happiness, community, fun.
In the West, a wide cultural shift has been happening in body identity, sizeism, gender pronouns, access and personal rights. In traditional, indigenous cultures, space has existed for centuries for flexible identity, gender roles, and personal definition. The gap is narrowing, but clothing, fashion and body image can show us how the West is wrestling with these global concepts while indigenous cultures are conserving or reviving ancient identity practices.
The book will feature a rich range of resources—from art to sculpture, original illustrations to designer’s doodles, embroidery to social media. Archive and museum research, combined with first person interviews, never-before-seen photographs, and images, and newly photographed and documented extant dress will spur the reader’s imagination and seamlessly weave together the cutting edge and historical.
WIDE AUDIENCE: Through Illustrated timelines, custom graphics, and a sense of humor, playfulness and curiosity, the book will be accessible to readers of all ages, from tweens exploring their own newly forming identity to cool aunts, and switched-on grandparents.
Camille is the Head of Costume Design in the School of Theatre at California Institute of The Arts. She has a Masters of Fine Art in Theatre Design from Yale School of Drama, and a Masters of Art from the Courtauld Institute in the History of Dress. Her first print book, Dressing The Resistance, celebrates the role of clothing, costume and nudity in activism and protest. Her recent projects include costume design for Bad Sisters, a 10-part Apple TV+ series starring Sharon Horgan and Daryl McCormack.Upcoming films include The Last Manhunt, starring Christian Camargo, Lily Gladstone and Raoul Trujillo.
Gwyn Conaway is a member of the Costume Designers Guild Local 892. She’s a costume designer, fashion historian, and culture specialist living in Southern California. Although she works primarily in historical and dramatic film, she also consults on costume simulation for major animation and gaming studios. She specializes in Marvelous Designer and garment model fit. Conaway recently co-authored Talking Threads: Costume Design for Animators and Illustrators, published by Design Studio Press in 2021.